This child of the country playing his roasting pan in expert

The country of the grands crus, a Marxism to a new genus seduces rich Bordeaux dealers by a true revolutionary discourse, but that annoys as their taste buds. The supervisor of the quiet revolution in Médoc is called Thierry Marx, head of the château Cordeillan Bages. This Cook does not hide his admiration for Ferran Adria and Pierre Gagnaire, two icons of the current kitchen.

Marx is a pragmatic who was able to wisely use everything he saw and discovered in France and also to build a personal universe that does not hide his influences, and first in the Japan. A "planet Marx", the title of his new book (Minerva), affectionnant the simplicity and fully nursed its effects (presentations, dinner service, lighting...). In a room and stripped scenery, it takes pleasure to taste a voluptuous pressed smoked eel "Earth and estuary", toast of cereals, the amazing virtual sausage, crisp bacon lens, the unusual soya risotto, juice of oysters and truffles (where the Chief plays here, as in his other designs, textures and crunchy), the beautiful milk lamb cooked in three ways with a quick glance tasty to the Lebanon where he stayed, and the delicious pie to lemon unstructured. However, the thin strips of lacquered tuna and candied tomatoes (slices of tuna of the thickness of a sheet of cigarette paper is leaving "cannibalize" by a tomato without taste) and bar stone age to the cocoa (whose intake is thin and that it does not adhere) we were disappointed. In summary, much originality, with a real job on the flavors and textures, but also a few mistakes creative (with say to leaders that they are artists...) and sometimes portions a little chick. The beautiful book of cave, Bordeaux shines of thousand fires course, the Champagne is proud, and the Val de Loire relevant, this at decent prices. Everyone will enjoy.

Kitchen under the influence

In Bages, Jean-Michel Cazes (Lynch-Bages), owner of Cordeillan, brings little by little the hamlet. He opened a bakery "to the Baba of Andréa", a bistro, Café Lavinal, and recently a boutique cellar. At Café Lavinal, the Argentine Hugo NETIN made cuisine under franco-italo-argentine influence. Grilled Polenta, shells and rockets, salad of lawyers, mackerel oil to grilled, secretion and chorizo vinaigrette, mouse of seven hours, chorizo bife lamb fries House and chimichurri (a typically Argentine seasoning), and semifreddo croccante banana and chocolate sauce, "downright fatal." Home all smiles, removed service.

Saint-Julien, after a tasting of wine in the cellars of château Léoville-Poyferré as aperitif, it is sufficient to cross the street is bustling at the Saint-Julien, hostel where Claude Broussard has installed a rotisserie. This child of the country playing his roasting pan in expert. Pigeon roasted in the PIN, square regional lamb and beef (for two) coast to eat with lively. Plus, a map where a whole bar has appreciated red wine juice presented as a Whiting "angry".

Near Saint-Estèphe, Roland Bernard, former Chief of the Atalante in Sainte-Marie-de-Ré, took stewardship Pomys hotel in June. In this quiet rooms 10 Castle surrounded by a park of 4 hectares, Roland Bernard created a restaurant, thus reinforcing the attractiveness of the deposit. 18 Euros for lunch menu already conquered the neighbouring owners good balance up their clients to passage. The kitchen is unpretentious, but made with care and kindness of implementation. A "small house" as it likes them to a stop without any worries.